Linen tunic (?) with appliquéd polychrome bands

Inventory number: FT 192
Photo Michel Lechien, Musée royal de Mariemont
Photo Michel Lechien, Musée royal de Mariemont
Photo Michel Lechien, Musée royal de Mariemont

The decoration is formed by pieces from two separate bands. The vertical bands show the remains of rosettes in a network of lozenges formed by small multi-coloured motifs on a scarlet ground. The crimson band at the bottom, probably cut out from the same textile for re-use, has a similar design. Despite the presence of a waist tuck to support a belt, the width of the bands could rather indicate a furnishing textile.

Origin:

Egypt

Date:

7th - 10th century

Material:

Linen and wool

Dimensions:

H. 100 cm, L. 71 cm; original dimensions H. 120 cm, L. (without sleeves): 94 cm; distance hem to tuck: 59cm

Comparisons:

V&A, London, inv. 363-1887.

Provenance:

Collection Coptic textiles Fill-Trevisiol: donation

Location:

Musée royal de Mariemont

Separately-woven linen and woollen tapestries sewn onto the linen cloth.

I. Ground weave

Warp:

natural-coloured linen: S: 11/cm

Weft:

natural-coloured linen S: 11/cm

Weave:

tabby

Other features:

selfbands every 7cm; selfbands: 3 x (3 x 2 yarns/pick)

II. Tapestry areas

1) Band on hem and on side seam
2) Clavi
3) Small band to finish the underarm opening (width: 1cm, tapestry on twined warp)

Warp:

1) natural-coloured linen, S2Z: 12/cm
2) natural-coloured linen S

Weft:

1) pink, orange, brown, green and nuances of blue wool S: 44/cm; natural-coloured linen S
2) red, blue, green, orange and black wool S: 54/cm; natural-coloured linen S

Weave:

1) weft-faced tabby
2) extended tabby 2/2

Ribs per cm:

2) 9

Special techniques:

1) slit tapestry, eccentric weft

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